[CBE Insights] Next focal point for the booming skincare products

In today’s skincare market, “function efficacy” is still reaching new heights!

In the new era of skincare efficacy, consumers are showing unprecedented enthusiasm for skincare products that contains anti-aging, anti-allergen, anti-freckle, acne removing, skin whitening, regeneration, pore refining, etc. “skincare efficacy” has become the ultimate pursuit for skincare and presents new opportunity for cosmetic brands.

Facing increasingly competition in the “skincare efficacy” market, many brands are trying hard to make a breakthrough, which was clearly manifested at the 25th China Beauty Expo (CBE) and Supply World (SW).

As a weathervane in China’s beauty industry, CBE reflects the industry’s trends and hot topics, turning into business opportunities year after year. Which products are winning the hearts of young consumers at this year’s CBE and SW? What are the new trends in the “skincare efficacy” market in 2020? How do you distinguish your brand from others?

1.  Efficacy is a key factor, “Ingredient” being the focal point

When efficacy and rationality become new labels for consumers when choosing beauty products, ingredients matter the most. “efficacy” has also become the most direct and effective way to attract consumers of the new generation.

According to China Meiyi Science and Technology White Paper jointly released by CBE/SW, “YAT” and “beautydata.ai” at the 2020 International Cosmetics Technology Conference, most consumers pay attention to “efficacy” when purchasing cosmetics. 

First things that come to mind when consumers hear the term “technology” is latest and most effective ingredients plus advanced formula. 

“Skincare efficacy” has a huge fanbase. The market for effective skincare products in China is developing rapidly in recent years. According to relevant data, the market of skincare products has registered a CAGR of 30% or above in the last year or two.  In terms of ingredients, consumers are no longer satisfied with something conceptual, but something that has scientific basis and effective results.

At the CBE and SW this year, “ingredients” has become the focus point for skincare brands. Products named straight from the ingredients, such as nicotinamide, ceramide, retinol, Pro-Xylane TM and purple perilla, etc. score big points. From the latest technologies displayed by upstream cosmetics businesses, we find "efficacy" the main trend of skincare products revealed at the supply side. Research, development and application of effective ingredients have always been a major direction of innovation and advancement for cosmetic materials.


2. “Anti-early aging” is gaining popularity, Anti-aging effect sets off a new wave

The increasing anxiety of consumers and their awareness of aging keep anti-aging products going strong. According to an insightful report Consumption Trends in Four Major Industries: Re-reading Consumers released by Alimama, the "early aging crisis" has spurred the trend of "rejuvenation". In the beauty sector, the trend of youthfulness can be seen in essence and eye care products, which traditionally focuses on anti-aging.​

Anti-aging products are the most eye-catching items showcased at CBE 2020. Herborist Derma, a sub-brand of Shanghai Jahwa, presented three freeze-dried ampoule products, one of which was 77 Polypeptide Firming Freeze-Dried Powder made of three anti-aging ingredients including polypeptide, ginseng extract and retinol using the freeze-drying technology to deliver benefits such as firming, filling and fine line correcting.

Pechoin showcased its new series of products at CBE 2020.  Pechoin Wrinkle Removing and Restoring Series, which hailed as the “cure to anti-aging” and was developed to solve the early aging issue of oriental women. It is reported that Pechoin has inked a strategic cooperation agreement with German-based Merck KGaA to incubate exclusive anti-aging plant ingredient ProVTA™ which will then be applied to Pechoin Wrinkle Removing and Restoring Series. It is believed that this series will start an upsurge in the anti-aging market.

The growing popularity of anti-aging solutions are also manifest in the latest technologies showcased by upstream businesses. In terms of composition, Japanese-based Kolmar mainly focuses on restoring and anti-aging polypeptide ingredients, for example, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5. Shanghai Yidai Cosmetics released multiple latest products for anti-aging and repairing, such as astaxanthin serum, nanogold saccharification-inversing, probiotics balancing and regulating serum, etc. The nano-platinum facial mask of BAHO boasts the function of anti-aging as well …

3. “Repair” efficacy emerges, Leading the new trend of efficient skincare

Recent data have shown that one in three women have sensitive skin, and it’s a real headache for those that have it. The concept of "sensitive skin repair" has gradually reached consumers from a niche market.  The current “face mask” measure has also triggered an upsurge in skincare for sensitive skin and ways to relieve irritation caused by mask has been a hot topic. In this context, a series of functional skincare products have emerged, including sensitive skin repair, skin barrier and sunscreen products for sensitive skin.

The chemical composition of “repair” efficacy has attracted more "ingredient-centric consumers", while "regeneration and repair" has also become a newly emphasized effect. In the past year, consumers' attention to cell repair ingredients has increased significantly, and the consumption of beauty ingredients such as repairing oligopeptides, ceramides, and retinol has been increasing.

In the ODM section set up at this year’s CBE, COSMAX showcased its new products, technologies and ideas.  In the skincare explorer theme area, products featured four concepts - acne treatment, regeneration, repair and no animal testing. Among skincare series presented by NBC this year, there are FN (Fibronectin) series and dual-cavity essence series developed based on current consumers’ demands for skin repair with a view to meet diversified needs on all aspects of the markets. In addition to hydrating, whitening, brightening, elastic nutrition and other functions, Kolmar's skincare products also promote soothing and relief effects.


4. “Skincare” concept applied to hair & body care, Efficacy extends to personal care categories

“Ingredient-centric consumer’s" obsession with ingredients did not stop at skincare, but gradually extended to many other categories of beauty makeup and personal care. As toiletries has always been a focus of attention for many cosmetics companies, raw material suppliers are also working on innovations for this specific category.​

Insights into Consumers of Online Beauty Makeup and Personal Care in 2019 released by CBN Data points out that "ingredient-centric consumers" place great value on nicotinamide with whitening efficacy in body care, bath supplies and other segments. Fruit acids for removing acne, for example, are hot sellers in body care, while amino acids for cleaning and resisting damage are hot sellers in bath supplies and hair care.

Consumers’ enthusiasm for chemical ingredients is driving the development of other personal care categories, which also heralds a new future for the high-end toiletries market. Premium toiletries have become a new niche market following cosmetics and skincare products, and many brands have acted quickly to grab this opportunity. At this year’s CBE, the trend of applying efficacy ingredients to personal care category is more and more evident, which has become a new development opportunity.

Repair and anti-aging have gained more and more popularity, and the efficacy has become the most important and urgent need of consumers. People's further pursuit of skincare also drives the cosmetics industry to constantly introduce new products and lead the trend of efficient skincare!